dslr595148's Correct Answers

#1 You only need to use their NAT router if: a) You have Fios TV One (or if I am/was close but not quite: Fios One TV). b) You need support from them. Support will end at the ONT if you use your own NAT router. #2 Since you do not have Fios TV, you can change the cable from the ONT to ethernet. As how to do that I am not sure since I do not and never had Fios but I know part of the answer. a) You can wire it your self or hire some one else (ex electrician) to put the wire in place. b) You must contact Verizon for them to switch it from Moca to ethernet. c) Once you get their NAT router working, then you can switch it your NAT router. #3 While I am sure that you could use ethernet instead of Moca, but if desired you could put their NAT router into bridge mode. Then your RJ-45 WAN port NAT router goes behind theirs. But please keep in mind that that Moca will not work above a certain speed (ex: 500 MB. Note sure if that is the correct number).

Ok. On Windows go the security center. This might depend on which version of Windows you got there. Since I am on Windows 10, I went to Start -> Settings -> Updates and Security -> Windows Security -> Firewall and Network Protection. For the profile that is active, click on it. In my case that is private network. For testing reasons only set the firewall to Off. Re test the TCP ports. If not blocked by anything (exs the NAT router, any other firewall or even the ISP) the result will change to connection refused. Once you are there: #1 I would recommend the firewall back on. #2 you are so close to allowing user from the net to connect to you. All you need to do is to find out how to get the server into the listening state. Once the server is in the listening state, now users can connect to your server.

According to REF https://www.verizon.com/supportresources/content/dam/verizon/support/consumer/documents/internet/fios-router-user-guide.pdf you change the LAN IP by going to Advanced -> Network Settings -> Network Connections -> Network (HOME/OFFICE) CONNECTION -> Settings

If you have Fios TV One (or if I got that so close, Fios One TV), you must have their NAT router connected to the ONT. To avoid double NAT, therefore you must convert the second NAT into acting as if was only a hub/switch/WAP. The info from https://forums.verizon.com/t5/g1100-bridging-guide/bd-p/g1100-bridging-guide tells how to do if you had the G1100. If you do not have that NAT router, then basicly the same thing.  #1 Second NAT router: a) not connected to the primary NAT until told to do so.  b) LAN IP gets changed so that it is in the same subnet as the primary NAT router. Ex with primary NAT router at 192.168.1.1 with the subnet mask of 255.255.255.0 (or /24 - called slash notation) you might choose to use 192.168.1.254 / 24 c) DHCP Server gets disabled. #2 Now you can connect the second NAT router to the primary NAT router.

Yes. #1 Go to https://forums.verizon.com/t5/g1100-bridging-guide/bd-p/g1100-bridging-guide #2 Read all of the text where it says By clicking on "I Agree," please confirm that you have read and agree to the each of the following: Click on I agree as directed. #3 Read and follow the directions in the emulator UI. #4 After reading and following the directions in the emulator UI: a) You should be able to do it for real with your NAT router. b) If you have any questions on that, please post.

If it is FIOS TV One (or what ever it called ex FIOS One TV), you must use their NAT router as the primary NAT router and you can only either have: a) The WAN port of the Linksys Connected to a LAN port of their NAT router. Warning Double NATTED. b) The LAN IP of the Linksys with-in the same subnet as the their NAT router, the DHCP Server in the Linksys must be disabled and lastly you are to use one of the LAN ports of the Linksys to connect to a LAN port of their NAT router. This means for example: Their NAT router at 192.168.1.1/24 and the Linksys at 192.168.1.6/24. By /24, I mean the subnet is 255.255.255.0 (and with a max of 254 IP Addresses from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.254). Note about those options, someone may correct me and say only option b works. Since I do not and never had FIOS (including FIOS TV), the info is only based upon what I read/heard.

@gs0b wrote: It looks like the router has told you it's limitation: max of 256 addresses, or a class C space.  I'm not aware of anyway to change it.  Others here may comment. I point to and quote part of https://www.verizon.com/about/sites/default/files/fios-qgr-userguide140925.pdf user's guide/manaul for that unit in question. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS10.1n/ HOW MANY COMPUTERS CAN BE CONNECTED THROUGH MY GATEWAY? Your Gateway is capable of 254 connections, but we recommend having no more than 45 connections. As the number of connections increase, the available speed for each computer decreases. Yep.

@Crudler wrote: If we do this, can we just connect the G3100 to the cable modem by ethernet? That should be is correct for that unit. Here is/are a few of the thing(s) to be to be aware of: #1 It will depend on the cable modem as certain cable modems are not just modems (read: Modem combo = modem and NAT router all-in-one). #2 If not a modem combo then it matters the max number of CPEs. For example with my cable modem (non combo) with a max of two CPEs, it allows me to switch between two different NAT routers behind the modem without the need to reboot the cable modem between switching them. If my modem was set to only one CPE then that would mean that I would have to turn off the modem before disconnecting one NAT router and turn back the modem after the second NAT router gets connected to it. #3 Verizon can only remotely upgrade the NAT router's firmware if it is on their network. Perhaps you could download and install third party firmware on it? Because at some point security flaw(s) or other fixes or lastly new features will come out and Verizon will push the firmware to update and you will not able to get it/them once you are not on Verizon's network. I do not what days and time of day the firmware is updated regarding Verizon firmware for their NAT routers. For example days but time unknown:  If you on a computer running Windows I know that the updates (and or features) come out every second Tuesday of the month. @Crudler wrote: And (assuming the splitters are good) can we just plug the E3200 into the coax network?  Or do these devices phone home and refuse to work if they can see they aren't talking to verizon machines? I am not sure of that unit so someone else who knows more than I do, will have to help you. [EDIT] #1 At least two problems to be aware of loading third party firmware. a)If your NAT router is under warranty, you just voided your warranty by loading the third party firmware. b) Regardless under warranty or not, if you do not do it carefully you will brick your NAT router. And by brick your NAT router, it will only work as a door stop with pretty lights (when powered up)- Please do not take this/that lightly. #2 While I know the unit can be remotely upgraded on their network, unknown by me if that is limted/restricted to only FIOS or not. Ex perhaps it will work on Verizon DSL if that exist in the new area?

Hello. Welcome to the Forums. You are largely talking to other customers here. First things first. #1 You only need to use their NAT router if: a) You have FIOS TV One (or maybe I got the wording wrong. Ex FIOS One TV). b) Or if you need support from #2 But please keep in mind: That info is only base upon what I heard/read as I do and never had FIOS before.

Keep in mind as long as you do not have FIOS TV, you are welcome to use any NAT router that you want to as your primary NAT router - after you switch to ethernet (at the ONT end and your NAT router end). And keeping in mind that they will only support up to the ONT if you use your own NAT router as primary. If you have have FIOS TV, then it matters if it is not just FIOS TV - it is FIOS TV One (or what it is called. ex FIOS One TV). With FIOS TV One it is not possible at all to use your own NAT router as primary. This is only as I heard/read, as I do not or ever had FIOS.

I will give to you my two cents. While the kids could spoof/clone the MAC Address of their computer, they could also find another wi-fi network nearby (or go over a friend's house) and in turn completely bypass you. Also I point to https://www.broadbandsearch.net/blog/online-safety-parental-controls to where it says A Few Things To Consider as well as Step 4 and beyond (including putting the computer in a public place).

After logging into it, go to Advanced -> Network Settings -> IPv4 Address Distribution -> Connection List. Likewise for IPv6: Go to Advanced -> Network Settings -> IPv6 Address Distribution -> Connection List. REF manual / user's guide https://www.verizon.com/supportresources/content/dam/verizon/support/consumer/documents/internet/fios-router-user-guide.pdf Page 145 and 146 of 191 pages.

Your new NAT router does not support Loopback / Reserve NAT / Hairpin. I point to pcwintech.com under Routers -> Router Help to where it says How to test if your router supports Reverse NAT. Please note this assumes that users from the outside can reach your server. If not, make sure: #1 A Static IP is setup either on the computer or for the computer. Points to portforward.com -> Networking to their Static Vs. Dynamic IP Address guide. #2 Make sure that you are forwarding correctly. Two of the most common mistakes are: a) not fowarding to the correct IP Address. b) filling in the source port. This needs to be left alone as Any.

While I mostly agree with your other helpers, here is my two cents. About MAC/Physical/Hardware Addresses: #1 They are always sent in the clear, regardless of encryption (think SSL or even WPA2). #2 It is possible to spoof/clone them. For a Linksys BEFSR41W, after logging into the NAT router you would click on Advanced and then click on MAC Address Clone See the UI at https://ui.linksys.com/BEFSR41W/wanMac.htm While I have no comments as how to spoof/clone the MAC Address on a normal computer (not a NAT router): So keeping in mind it is possible to spoof/clone them I have an idea. #1 Change the password for the Wi-Fi link. #2 Add one computer at a time that is/are authorized to use the Wi-Fi link. Ex If I had an iPhone, I would update the iPhone to what the new password is. #3 As you add one computer at time (update what the password is), you should be able to figure it out.

Saw your similar thread at DSLR https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r32946258-IPv6-Pinhole Between yes and no, enabled in the router: Yes. Note: But that does not mean that you have a public/route-able IPv6 Address...

@jsw138 wrote: Yes, I did.  All you need to do is change you DNS Server settings to the Google DNS server settings. Preferred: 8.8.8.8 Alternate: 8.8.4.4 While In agreement to change the DNS Server Settings, I am sure that it does not have to be DNS Service provided by Google.

Try rebooting everything first as well to see if fixes it, no internet is not speed related issue From your comment "Network connected, no internet" it does sound like something going on with your wireless radio(s). Does that message appear on all wireless connected devices at the same time? got anything measuring the performance of your network? If you don't get that in place. Some initial thoughts : - CPU / memory of your equipment -- is the CPU constantly maxed out? Is the RAM? - how much up and download you're using of your 100Mbit pipe -- are you constantly near or at your maximum pipe limits? - what is the signal strength you get of your wifi signal? Are there competing wifi signals nearby that is interfering? If indeed your wired hosts don't have this problem WHEN your wifi host do, seems to point to a wifi specific issue. My next steps would be : a) ping between an affected wifi host to your router's 192.168.x.x IP address. If successful, move up the chain towards whatever it is on the internet you're trying to get to : Netflix, Google, etc. b) refer again to my suggestion to measure the wifi signal strength. I'm not talking in stars/bars/good/better/bestest, I mean an actual decibel value. There's several recommended softwares for Android and Windows for this precise purpose. if I have a 100Mbps connection and 10 devices they would be splitting the bandwith with 10Mbps each. Not entirely, but understanding that would involve delving deep into how TCP and UDP work. Again, having something to measure how much of your pipe is being used would determine whether you need to upgrade your internet package or not, rather than relying on the ISP's "advice." Final thought, out of your wifi hosts, the phones obviously cannot be put on a wired connection. Honestly it sounds like the best way to save your sanity is put what you can on wired, leave the rest and deal with it the best you can.